I beg to differ (on that it doesn't speak to Italian cuisine today), though I am writing from Florence, where I live (and where Artusi lived for most of his life). There are countless international variations, such as Spaghetti Bolognese, an American transposition of the original recipe.

The recipe for “Classic Bolognese Ragù” was patented at the Bologna Chamber of Commerce on October 17, 1982, by the Bologna Delegation of the Italian Academy of Cuisine.Luigi Ballerini is an Italian poet and Professor Emeritus at the University of California Los Angeles. A recipe that, however, does not correspond entirely to the one patented in 1982 at the Bologna Chamber of Commerce by the Bolognese Delegation of the Italian Academy of Cuisine.

If you are looking for genuine Italian recipes covering most regions, you'll be certain to find them here. Science in the Kitchen and the Art of Eating Well by Pellegrino Artusi can hardly be the most imaginative choice of cookbook. He bought a house in D'Azeglio Square in Florence, where he quietly lived out his life until 1911 when he died at age 90. This English edition (first published by Marsilio Publishers in 1997) features a delightful introduction by Luigi Ballerini that traces the fascinating history of the book and explains its importance in the context of Italian history and politics.

Just glide it onto a quickly made pasta frolla, a sweet, short crust pastry—Artusi's “recipe B” and my go-to whenever I need a pie crust or basic cut out cookies—and you have the perfect Florentine treat. Add the passata or the peeled tomatoes, cover and simmer slowly for about 2 hours, adding broth when necessary, then add the milk towards the end to counteract the acidity of the tomato.