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Keep it Simple: Fresh Look at Classic Cooking

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I had read several of his recipes for slow cooking, in which he gave oven temperatures in centigrade.

Honestly, unless you are an enthusiastic and well-practiced cook, you simply wouldn’t believe how many puffed-up, information-light (some downright misleading) cookery books there are out there, or at least you wouldn’t realise that until you read and consciously applied your learning from Little’s “Keep It Simple”. To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average.This book may be twenty years old; but remember that in 1994 it won the Glenfiddich Award for a very good reason. A restaurant critic told me the other day Mr B also believes that if you prick each chip individually with a fork, this makes for an even finer end-product; but that for some reason (like straining our credulity) he didn't put this in the recipe. Overleaf, where Olney mentions this item, I see I have underlined his words and written, "Why not explain what this is somewhere in the bloody book, matey? Olney was one of the guests, and I later heard that when the waiter poured him a glass of red wine, he sipped it and sent it back. And here most people, and certainly most kitchen pedants, part company with Messrs Blumenthal and Olney, and also with Mrs David.

A decade late his book, Keep it Simple (1993) was published and quickly became a bestseller, a handbook for small restaurants, and the new-trend of gastro pubs in Britain. What some people might have forgotten is that British cuisine, as it is today, did not emerge miraculously in its present form from under the tyranny of heavy sauces - there was the rebellious phase of fusion food marking the journey. He is the rare mixture of a supreme gastrotechnologist who understands the twitch and flex of every muscle, and a cook who is rococo in his imaginings. I think I gave it five, and two subsequent reheatings of 45 minutes each only enhanced the tail's fork-meltingness. Like most people, I annotate my cookbooks - ticks, crosses, exclamation marks, emendations and suggestions for next time.The recipes are organised seasonally and reflect Little's interest in Italian, Japanese, Chinese and French cookery. The vast array of those national culinary traditions does point in the same direction though: British, Italian, French, Chinese, Japanese, Thai and Morrocan flavours are all here in this publication. I quite want to cook some of what Mr Blumenthal does: though when he tells me that the best way of cooking a steak is to flip it every 15 seconds, making 32 flips in all for its eight-minute cooking period, I am inclined to wonder who will be minding the chips and mushy peas while I flip four steaks 128 times, so I say Pass. Alastair understands that not everyone is a culinary genius in the kitchen, and each recipe is straightforward and works. I have a standard oven with gasmarks, and we were clearly talking gasmark 1 and below; the temperature-conversion charts that preface basic cookbooks didn't even start at the temperature - 65 - that Mr B was proposing for one particular recipe.

Because she seems to have her admonishing eye on me; because I feel that if I get something wrong I will have offended her shade. Alastair Little is one of the unsung heroes of British cuisine One of the great classic cookbooks, the start of the British food revolution. e. how to decode and rearrange inadequately (and even downright badly) written recipe instructions out there in the vast spiralling market of in- and out-of- print cookery books.The publisher of Simple French Food meanly had the book glued rather than sewn, and the pages you use regularly just fall out when you open it. I revere Elizabeth David, yet don't cook from her as often as I know I should, or even as often as I want to. Finance is provided by PayPal Credit (a trading name of PayPal UK Ltd, Whittaker House, Whittaker Avenue, Richmond-Upon-Thames, Surrey, United Kingdom, TW9 1EH).

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