Radiator Expansion Water Tank Cap Compatible for Fiesta Focus C-Max Mondeo

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The most obvious valid reason for replacing a water pump would be an overheating incident due to actual or suspected water pump failure .

That'd be a false negative. Probably more likely than a false positive, which would require contamination with coolant or old test fluid It will however, also slow your engines warmup times, and if you’ve got any starting difficulties now, perhaps from a bit of coolant getting into the cylinders, they’ll probably get worse. This may be tolerable, at least for the summer. Going by the radiator cap pressure in the cooling system is likely to be lower than oil pressure, so you might not get much coolant going the other way, plus coolant in the oil will probably be less visible, initially at least.I've had 2 or 3 serious overheating incidents due to failed repairs on the fan control circuit, so I'm expecting a head gasket failure. I'd assume that'd be the chemical test for CO2, because I'd assume its commoner, but "some tests" isn't a specific description. The mechanic I used took another look at it today and has returned it to me stating that it is in fact a problem with the head, stating he ran some tests and found gas to be escaping and entering the coolant system. He has now offered a short term solution by saying he can apply some sort of leak repair stuff which requires the coolant system to be flushed then the additive put in with new coolant. Does anybody have any experience with this and if so, how long is it likely to withhold? My car is due to have it's MOT in February, how likely is it to pass this? The leak has definitely been repaired and despite the coolant bubbling after every trip to/from work, it doesn't look to have decreased in volume in the reservoir. The running temp (on the dashboard at least) seems to be normal, the only thing that's changed is that the fan boots in a lot sooner than it ever had done beforehand

Right at the beginning of this thread I suspected CHG failure. I think paul 1963 (post above) is spot on. The symptoms described are a classic example of a tiny defect appearing. Water line is just below min too so I better get it filled (I suspect that when I have been taking it in for it's oil change, they havent been topping up the water as they can't get it off!

CarGurus UK Limited, c/o Legalinx Limited, 3rd Floor, 207 Regent St, London W1B 3HH, United Kingdom If there was no overheating, the water pump replacement is a bit suspect, but is unlikely to have caused a head gasket failure, which seems to be suspected by the OP. The leak has definitely been repaired and despite the coolant bubbling after every trip to/from work, it doesn't look to have decreased in volume in the reservoir. The running temp (on the dashboard at least) seems to be normal, the only thing that's changed is that the fan boots in a lot sooner than it ever had done beforehand (I don't really expect it to have to come on for a 25 minute drive on residential roads). One thing I have noticed is that the fan doesn't seem to come on if I run the heater inside the car. Not entirely sure why this is, but in all honesty I know next to nothing about the internal workings of cars, hence why I went to a mechanic in the first place! The Internyet has many instances of cars that are difficult, for which the pro fix is a vacuum pump. The vid link (a Jeep Liberty IIRC) I give above is just one example.

Hi Freddy42, I know you posted this over 3 years ago so I'm asking this more in hope that you will reply. I am having the same problem you had concerning You can of course improve your personal cooling a bit with various supplementary fan and evaporative solutions. Look up “swamp cooler” if interested, though I doubt you want to get quite that elaborate. Or take a brave pill, remove the top half of the top, then start the car and let expansion increase the pressure inside the tank. It could not be worse than removing an unwanted shed / starting fires with petrol / any other PH method of bodily harm! Yes thats why its called an expansion tank! When cold it should be at max level or close too in use it should not go below min levelWith the engine cold, I first loosened the cap as much as possible(almost one turn). Then I let it sit in that position for one minute. The I tried to loosen it some more(almost a quarter of a turn). I repeated this step again after one minute untill I made 2 complete turns. Then it started to loosen after each try. So I've recently had a coolant leak repaired on my 2008 model Ford fiesta where the mechanic noted that the water pump and thermostat needed replacing. Having had those replaced and my car returned to me, the leak has stopped however the coolant has begun to boil/bubble after driving the ~30 minute journey to/from work (~20 miles each way).

The OP is unlikely to want to bother with that though, especially as he already has some blowing from the coolant reservoir so couldn’t easily detect any local boiling due to modification. Further to my last post, the bubbling coolant has continued but in all honesty I am not too fussed as long as the car can last me another 3-4 months. My main concern is that if I drive it without the internal fan on to accommodate for some of the extra heat, the temperature of the engine (on the dashboard, at least) begins to very slowly climb above 90 degrees. It remains on 90 if I keep the fan on, but the engine fan creates a hell of a noise (not that it matters if it is working). Now it is getting towards summer I am starting to get fed up of absolutely roasting in my car every time I go to/from work so am looking for an answer, however, given my problems with previous mechanics and the fact that I have already paid out a few hundred pounds on this issue I wanted to ask the advice of you guys before having a paid mechanic come and look again. When your engine is running, it makes power—but it also makes heat. And that’s where engine coolant comes in. If you had a water pump failure its a fair bet you had overheating. Head gasket or head failure is a common consequence of overheating, so no big surprise there.sadly it is not that rare for head gaskets to fail again, you sometimes see cars advertised where it says head gasket just done suggesting that is a positive, to me it's a negative. You can sometimes score extra cooling using the aircon fan (I ran my Sierra using the aircon fan only for a while) but I assume if you had one you would already be using it IF the water pump is belt driven, I suppose it might be possible to change the pulley to increase the pumping rate, but I doubt it would be worth the trouble. I like the idea of a physical test because I might be able to lash one up, and I doubt I'd be able to get the chemical kit here.