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Posted 20 hours ago

Vallejo Model Color 500 ml Matt Acrylic Varnish

£9.9£99Clearance
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ZTS2023
Joined in 2023
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I am going to use Vallejo matt (brush) varnish and Winsor & Newton Gallery series (brush) matt varnish. Is anyone using em for producing serious results ?(I mean not only for tabletop but for display too). Or does somebody knows a better product than them?

Especially with brush, how can we effectively avoid clouding/misting? And is there a way to correct a possible mistake?Edit edit - Another interpretation of what you mean is to paint over the gloss varnish by hand to add more detailing. Yes and no, see the comment above about the spray not getting into all the crvices. You can mitigate that somewhat by very careful spraying, but ultimately you're spraying a clear liquid and estimating ceverage is hard.

Its a bit like woodwork. Varnish a bit of wood that is not 100% dry and the water vapour will cloud the bottom of the varnish as it tries to escape. same configuration as before but with a drop of liquitex flow aid: less clogging but still happening FYI you can use acrylic gloss(clear coat) spraypaint from a can to remove the frosting effect, but it leaves your miniatures VERY glossy, even if you try to tone down the gloss with several coats of satin. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DoBwMghF20A I might try a matte coat with a brush to bring down the gloss. I'm using Vallejo series of varnishes.So that leaves vallejo PU varnishes. They do a standard polyurethane, which is fine, or their 'premium' line. Lately, they've also introduced the mecha varnish. I'm 99% convinced the latter two are the same stuff, or at least very, very similar. The main difference is the paint line they're attached to - premium is marketed at airbrushed RC cars, mecha line at airbrushed gundam etc. Mecha varnish is available in a 17ml size, while the smallest premium bottle is 60ml IIRC.

Hey Psy, I wrote anther edit as you must have been typing. I've never heard anyone recommending that you paint your mini gloss before completion. Fair enough if it works for them, but I'm frankly HORRIFIED at the concept. Gloss paint is super smooth, it doesn't take drybrushing AT ALL, it screws with your opacities, and if you paint with thinned paint it encourages your layers to slide into the crevices as you describe (I use a consistency approaching milk to achieve a smooth finish when painting with a brush). If your spray from too far away the varnish can dry in the air before it hits the model and this can produce some unwanted results. As with all things I suggest you try this on a test mini first! Oh and the sprayer bottle.. I doubt that it would work. The nozzle will get clogged very easily I fear.THEN you have what the varnish is made of. For modelling there are basically three types; acrylic, polyurethane (PU), and lacquer. In price, acrylic is cheapest, lacquer is most expensive. In terms of protection, acrylic is the worst, PU is very good, and lacquer is slightly better. In terms of toxicity, acrylic and PU aren't, and lacquer can be a bit toxic (it certainly smells!) So at this point I’m open to suggestions, is it me that I’m using this stuff incorrectly? This doesn’t really happen with my Vallejo resin varnish when going through the airbrush, they seem to go much smoother without much thinning.

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