GAMES WORKSHOP 99120199055 "Sector Mechanicus: Industrial Bases Plastic Kit

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If I can I put the standard infantry units on the 32mm can I then put the HQ/Character models on 40mm bases like the Primaris HQ/Character models are? Or would they all need to be on 32mm bases?

Yeah, no problem. It would also improve their look as the bigger base size alone already makes them seem to be bigger compared to regular humans. They'd still look tiny compared to Primaris, Deathwatch and the new Chaos Marine models though.Howdy scummers! As we prepare for the upcoming release of Necromunda: Ash Wastes, this seemed like a phenomenal time to hit up the Goonhammer contributors for their preferred methods for painting up Sector Mechanicus kits. SM seems like a solid way to “fill” up an Ash Wastes table, in a spirit similar to the terrain previewed for the next box! We just want to encourage you to paint up all the terrain you’ve been hoarding. Sector Mechanicus Terrain Edge drybrush everything with a light silver. I used Citadel Necron Compound, but I think Vallejo Air Steel would also work well. Sector Mechanicus terrain: the end of the grungy metal stage. Credit: Charlie Brassley Fowler: Oddly enough, Shadow War: Armageddon is what got me to really take the plunge on the hobby. Assembly note for people who want to maximize modularity (for Necro and Kill Team especially) – I highly recommend making some clipped walkways. Sector Mechanicus. Credit: Fowler Included are 2 65mm Round bases, 10 40mm Round bases and 40 32mm Round bases, along with 2 lights, 2 vent and 2 computer terminals to add to any base for extra detail.

The new Master of Possession in Shadowspear is also on a 40mm though he would have fit fine on a 32mm IMHO. Likewize, the new havocs are on 40mm bases, but they really do need that base size and their stances are very wide.Commonly accepted is put your models on the bases they came delivered with or the bases the latest version uses (so 25mm or 32mm both would be fine for you) Can I use these blank 32mm bases to replace the 25mm bases from my 4th/5th edition Power Armor models? Or do they need to use the 25mm bases they came with? Broadly speaking, there’s three phases to this: grungy metal, then a pop of bright colour on the flat panels, then some minimal detailing. Phase One: Basic Grungy Metal Next comes the base color for the walkway. I liked the light beige-ish color they used on the original mechanicus terrain shown off so I went with that as my scheme. I apply a few thin coats of Karak Stone to get the base color for the walkway I need.

With the imminent release of Ash Wastes, I decided to finally build and paint up all of the Sector Mechanicus kits I have been buying up over the past few years. The scheme I’ve got here can be toned waaaaay down if you want to turn it into a speedpaint as well. The basic gist of it is red platforms and bone-colors supports. Sector Mechanicus. Credit: Fowler That leaves us with just one step left: Weathering. This is another spot I don’t want to spend a ton of time, so I take an old flared out brush or a piece of sponge and just dapple Typhus Corrosion all over the surface to give it lots of grime spots and dirt. I’ll smudge a few as well. Drybrush a dark metallic over the whole thing. I used Army Painter gunmetal, but I’m sure Citadel Leadbelcher would be fine too.From here is the detail work. I use acrylic inks over the raised details on top and inside the barriers to add some visual interest and serve as the underlayer for anywhere I want hazard stripes. I then custom printed hazard stripes on decal paper and cut them to size since I’m lazy and didn’t feel like masking and airbrushing everything. They’ll go right on top of the ink and with some Micro Set will soften and conform to the part. You may need to use a knife to poke holes where the plastic overlaps a rivet hole. After the ink dries a layer of sepia wash tones things downs and blends it all in. For the mechanical bits in the pillars I applied some Dirty Down Verdigris and then applied some sepia wash to blend it in. Once that’s done the next step is to add variety of color to the innards of the platform. You can do this before you lay down the karak stone if you prefer, but I find it easier to touch that up if I slip. Here I usually get some of the pipes and make sure to get some kind of continuity of color on them using Balthasar Gold. The goal is just to add a splash of color variety, which goes a long way. Copper piping Use a BIG brush to stipple inconsistent patches of a mid-brown over the primer spray. You want to be as messy and inconsistent as possible, with some patches of brown being fairly solid, and others being pretty much just a drybrush. Pretty much any mid brown will be fine for this, although going as dark as Citadel Rhinox Hide would probably be fine. Personally I was using the big ol’ keg of Calthan Brown that came in the old Citadel Scenery Painting set. If you’re not sure about the brown you’re using, just do a small bit of scenery to completion and see how it all sits together.