adidas Men's Bc0884 Track Shoe

Product Information

Other nuanced improvements in fit revealed themselves throughout testing. In a nutshell, Five Ten minimized loose areas compared to the Anasazi line. Noticeable changes included the internal volume around the top of my arch, a common area of bagginess for me. Everyone loves a history lesson (you can skip this if you want to just read about how the shoe performs, which is probably what you came for). I was going to use the title 'nomenclature' but I thought it was a bit too high-brow for a review. The NIAD VCS is the new version of the Anasazi but it's undergone a name change: out with the Anasazi and in with the Nose In A Day title. The NIAD range includes a few new iterations of classic modes: a new Anasazi, Moccasym and Pink. The NIAD VCS is, one of the most comfortable performance shoes I have tested. Of course, the neutral last has a large part to play in this, as does the semi-stiff, sensitive, profile. In truth, there have been more than one occasion on slab and vertical where the grip and edging ability of these shoes have given me the confidence to place weight on a tiny hold. These were situations I would have most likely bailed with a softer, more flexible shoe. Make sure you size your VCS to fit as, like any synthetic shoe, the stretch is minimal. After extensive use, I would guess mine have stretched 1/2 size if that. I’m a street size 10.5/11 US and got these in an 11 US.

Sizing - this has definitely changed from the original and is probably the same as the updated Anasazis, i.e. I need to go up half a size. While the Pink excels in the expanse between slabby and steep, it’s not the best tool for the extreme ends of the spectrum. In a pinch, it can moonlight as a steep sport-climbing shoe (sized tightly) or a comfortable shoe for multi-pitch adventures (sized roomy). That said, with a relatively flat, stiff build and no rubber on the toe box, the Anasazi Lace is certainly not the most ideal option for overhanging terrain, and the high rand tension means it is uncomfortable on slabs or as an all-day option. Boulderers should look for a softer, more aggressive model like the Scarpa Instinct VS or La Sportiva Skwama; those focusing on slab routes or more moderate climbs might appreciate a more supportive shoe like the less aggressive La Sportiva TC Pro or even the Pink’s stiffer Velcro cousin, the Anasazi VCS. Heading out the door? Read this article on the new Outside+ app available now on iOS devices for members!The Pink is our favorite shoe for vertical face climbing, and one of the most time-tested, high-performing all-arounders money can buy. Likeits predecessors, the NIAD VCS LV is a very comfortable shoeprovidinga decent level of performance. This is a flat shoe on aneutral last which maintains the narrow width of the Anasazi and addsa lower (height),narrower heel cup. Despite this, and though it is still a low volume shoe, we found the NIAD somehow accommodates more foot shapes than the Anasazi. For me personally, this means the NIAD fits my foot much better than the Anasazi did -much of this is due to the slight adjustment of the toe box shape (more on that later). The Anasazi VCS– a classic, durable shoe that is part of Five Ten’s famous Anasazi family and looks like something straight out of a ’90s climbing magazine. If you are used to the old Anasazi when it was manifactured in the US then we suggest going a whole size up for the same fit**

The suction effect generated from the heel gives you a really secure fit. During my time testing these shoes I’ve never had any issues with the heel slipping or moving when doing prolonged sections of slabby smearing or occasional heel hooking. Rubber

Our Verdict

have used a double rand, so even when they break in it'll take a fair while before they stretch too much. I've found this shoe to In the years following I have rarely passed up an opportunity to tell 5.10 bros how bad of a choice they were making and even managed to convince a couple of them to come to the light . I took my persuasive ability as confirmation that I was in fact correct: Sportiva > 5.10 and anyone who disagreed had to be some gym gumby who thinks a crimp is a type of English biscuit or a gaston is some sort of Disney anti-hero. So what if Chris Sharma sent Realization in these? “His hands are too strong,” I’d say, “he could have done that climb in heels. Plus he’s an Evolv climber now and is obviously sending harder since he stopped repping 5.10. Don’t buy the hype guys! Wanna smell the fresh resole I just got on my Cobras?” It’s no secret that laces give you flexibility in the fit of your shoes. You have the option of having them looser for a day of playing at the gym, or tightening them up for when it’s time to get serious with those harder pitches. What’s great about the Pinks is that the lace extends far down the center of the shoe, allowing you to get a custom fit right down to your toes. After extended periods of time standing in the Anasazi Pro, I almost feel as if I have to stand bow-legged to compensate for the loss I feel of side-to-side balance, not to mention the pain from the pressure on the tops of my big toes that I’m still not used to after all these months. I ran around the house looking at all the shoes I owned; none of them are nearly this symmetrical. “Welp. Unless I rest most of my weight on my heels, chilling on a ledge for hours is probably out.” I said. The cat was nonplussed.

Thanks to its neutral, medium-stiff midsole, the NIAD VCS offers ultimate edging performance, whilst the Stealth® C4™ rubber keeps you solid on the smallest indoor chip of a foothold as-well-as the glassy pof'ed-up slopers of Fontainebleau. A new extended toe rubber provides improved toe-hooking performance and gives more versatility in both your indoor and outdoor climbing projects.

In this honest Five Ten Anasazi VCSreview, I will talk you through some of the best and worst features of this hugely popular Anasazi model. Let’s get started! Toe Box When I first got the shoes I took them off maybe twice a session but after a little while, I was happy spending multiple hours in these shoes. I probably could have gone a half size down if I really wanted to go for that performance fit. Asymmetric design puts power over the big toe, making it easier to climb seams and smudge off small edges

The shoe did break in over a few weeks to become more pliable, but the dimensions of the shoe remained consistent. The partially lined suede microfiber upper and generously padded tongue were pleasant on my overly sensitive skin right out of the box. Overhangs also tend to require a bit more of a downward hook than these shoes provide, though that wasn’t a surprise given the mostly flat and fairly stiff sole. The added grip from the C4 absolutely helps a bit here, but definitely don’t go replacing your steep shoes with these until you’re finished with the Magnus Mitbö Finger Strength University Vol. 187: “The Pinchening” program.These images were taken after several months of constant use and speak to the quality of the manufacturing. As mentioned above, the NIAD VCS maintains the Anasazi's unlined, minimal stretchCowdura (suede microfibre) upper, so doesn't stretch much at all and offers some breathability (even in this year's Summer heatwaves) and abrasion resistance. The Five Ten Anasazi Laceor ‘Pinks’, as they are simply known, have been a staple of the Five Ten range since the ‘90s. Over the decades they have built a reputation as the ultimate all-rounder and a loyal fan base due to the shoe’s reliable performance and adaptable characteristics.