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Fuji Superia X-TRA 3 Pack ISO 400 36 Exp. 35mm Film, Total 108 Exposures

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It was the first time a true comparison could be done with equal parameters. Comparing a crop-camera with a film camera means that by using the same lens it has a different angles of view, thus one cannot really compare sharpness or grain vs noise. Using lenses with equal angle of view, e.g. a 135mm apc and 200mm fullframe, it is actually testing lenses as well, thus the playing field is even more unequal. While I recommend Fuji Superia 400 for beginner and expert photographers alike, specific photographic contexts play up the strengths of this film. You may want to choose this film for certain photography tasks while using an alternative for others. Portraits With Fuji Superia 400

You’ll also find that in the scoring sheet I provided, if you expand the hidden column, column B, this will also reveal the names of the films for easier reference, going forward. And now that we know which film is which, we can look at the final three factors to consider on the scoring sheet. I’ve included some defaults here, but these may require some adjustment based on where you live and some of your own observations or research regarding these films. I don’t claim that my scoring is perfect here. If you live in the US and it’s still 2019, these are the current price of the film per frame. This doesn’t include the price of development or scanning: A – Fujifilm C200 I loaded up my recently acquired Minolta Maxxum 700si with a 28-105 Minolta zoom lens and headed out on a slightly overcast Ohio spring day to burn through my first roll. The exposures were made at box speed using aperture priority, and I largely let the camera’s meter do the thinking. I shot handheld, and the shutter speeds were guaranteed fast with the 400-speed film. Obligatory gear shot: Gear! Minolta Maxxum 700si with a 28-105 Minolta zoom + Minolta a-9 with Carl Zeiss 24-70 2.8 zoom One can probably liken it to saying that it’s very close to Instax, but also not really in certain situations. Fujifilm Superia has a very good tonal range to it being easily able to recover highlights and shadows–though it tends to do better with shadows than highlights. Fujifilm Superia is first and foremost a daylight film, so you should try to expose it in daylight lighting lest you want to go for neons at night time and get a warmer look. In that case, go for it! I encourage it! That’s a super awesome look. Image Quality Pentax 67 (Superia 100) By mid 2019 the Superia product line had been consolidated into two films; Superia X-tra 400 (distributed outside Japan) and Superia Premium 400 (officially distributed in Japan only).

What type of film do you have?

These films are incredibly similar, though Agfa Vista 400 has a daylight balance. That means that you get the best results when taking photos outside in natural sunlight. If you’re working in a studio or with tungsten lighting, you’d want to add a filter. Even then, you might still need to remove the image’s green tint in Photoshop. Nikon FE – AI-S Nikkor 35mm 1:2.8 – Fujifilm Fujicolor Superia X-Tra 400 @ ASA-400 – Processing By: Burlington Camera Nikon FE – AI-S Nikkor 35mm 1:2.8 – Fujifilm Fujicolor Superia X-Tra 400 @ ASA-400 – Processing By: Burlington Camera Nikon FE – AI-S Nikkor 35mm 1:2.8 – Fujifilm Fujicolor Superia X-Tra 400 @ ASA-400 – Processing By: Burlington Camera Kodak Portra 400 is undeniably better but Fuji Superia is really good for what it is. What Are They Best For?

If you’re taking photos in autumn, I think this film would do a fantastic job of naturally accentuating the foliage. It can also counterbalance the cool tones if you shoot in an environment overpowered by blues. I’ve also been pleasantly surprised by the image quality in the under-exposed areas. Despite the colour shifts and the increased grain, the dark parts of my scans look relatively clean, virtually free of all colour noise.

Nikon FE – AI-S Nikkor 35mm 1:2.8 – Fujifilm Fujicolor Superia X-Tra 400 @ ASA-400 – Processing By: Burlington Camera Nikon FE – AI-S Nikkor 35mm 1:2.8 – Fujifilm Fujicolor Superia X-Tra 400 @ ASA-400 – Processing By: Burlington Camera Nikon FE – AI-S Nikkor 35mm 1:2.8 – Fujifilm Fujicolor Superia X-Tra 400 @ ASA-400 – Processing By: Burlington Camera Nikon FE – AI-S Nikkor 35mm 1:2.8 – Fujifilm Fujicolor Superia X-Tra 400 @ ASA-400 – Processing By: Burlington Camera I’m not usually a technical reviewer (otherwise I’d never stop!) so I’ll be discussing my process for shooting, developing, and printing my images from a standard roll of XP2. I use this film in either my Leica CL, or my Hasselblad XPan – mostly the XPan! Street photography with Fuji Superia 400 pops because of the bright colors that help you capture specific objects of interest. The fine grain adds just a hint of grit to urban cityscapes, giving the picture personality. Comparing Fuji Superia 400 To Other Color Films

I often notice that photographers who learned photography using digital cameras will apply a digital mindset when dealing with film ISO speeds and, vice versa, photographers who were raised on film will use that as a frame of reference for digital. What I look for in a digital sensor is not necessarily what I look for in a frame of film, and when it comes to pushing and pulling film it does take a bit of concentration for me to decide what I want specifically when dealing with film or digital as distinct entities. A professional film made by Fujifilm in 400, 800 & 1600 ISO speeds. It uses the same emulsions as Superia at those speeds, [23] but has been specially handled (refrigerated) since the time of manufacture. [24] See also [ edit ] I handed my Fujifilm X-M1 camera to my daughter, Joy, and told her that she could change the settings to whatever she wanted them to be—you might remember that she created the Winter Blue film simulation recipe. She used the camera to capture a bunch of pictures; afterwards, when I reviewed the images, I was very impressed with the look that she created. I asked her why she chose these settings, and she answered that she had hoped to capture some cherry blossoms, and it was initially overcast when she dialed in the settings, and she thought that it might work well for that. I guess this is the important question because I think it’s quite complicated, I think Superia has a place (for as long as it’s still around).

Prints & Enlargements

Fujifilm first created photographic and X-ray filmsin the 1930s. By the 1980s, they manufactured photographic film for consumers. As film photography fell out of style, they merged with Xerox and produced digital cameras. These days, they only manufacture a few types ofconsumer film. The History and Evolution of the Fuji Superia 400 These days I shoot C-41 color, still some Kodak 400 HD in my lead bag in my freezer. That was a consumer film that was better in definition than any other Kodak offerings other that the Ektars. I also process my own film; this is especially important in this new era of no one hour photos or drug store minilabs. If you are unsure how your expired film has been stored, or the quality of the emulsion, over exposing by 1 stop per decade is a good place to start with. But, as with every internet rule of thumb, it is not 100% accurate so always take it with a pinch of salt. This is the combined art and science of shooting expired film! For the scoring sheet under price, I’ve included some default pricing scoring that are informed by these prices per frame in the US. For everyone else, you’ll want to do your own research. Portra, as you might expect from the name, is ideal for portrait photography. It’s a low-contrast film though you can increase the saturation and contrast with overexposure. The colors aren’t vibrant enough to suit landscape photography or even cityscapes since the images have a pastel tint, but that feature makes portraits look incredibly flattering.

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