When I got my first DB, decades ago, some very ancient, sage and classically dressed gentlemen instructed that if one happened not to be a member of the armed forces or a brass band and nevertheless desired to wear a DB suit, that these were the rules:

It’s usually only possible to break the rules well when you know why they are there, and therefore what you are giving up. These were the old and established rules, they told me, simple rules, the middle way between maintaining a classic profile, important!, and being comfortable, which of course was less important. They could know, being born at the beginning of the twentieth century, or even slightly before that, into the upper and mostly well dressed classes. I do not like belted wrap coats, even though loose coats with such a belt have become trendy. I guess fashion has it that in a lifetime everyone will desire at least once loose garments and then fitted ones. A good thing after all, but I already had my loose phase and I feel it unlikely that it seduces me again. The trench coat is also traditionally double-breasted, single-breasted versions being civilian interpretations of the original military-derived fashion. Other coat styles typically featuring a double-breasted construction are the Guards Coat and the greatcoat styles of overcoats. The Chesterfield coat may be found in either single or double-breasted.

6×2

A British term that refers to what Americans call “suspenders.” Sartorially correct braces are pieces of fabric (sometimes silk, sometimes not) that sit on the shoulders and attach to the trousers’ waistband via buttons to hold them up. Clip-on braces are incorrect. I think I’ll have to wear it with more things, probably over the rest of the winter, before I know. A piece of fabric folded over itself in an accordion fashion. typical of men’s trouser fronts, they allow more space for the hips, especially when sitting. So you basically have three options for fastening the coat: tied with the belt, fastened a little more loosely with the jigger, or unfastened completely. US ) A double-ended vessel, generally of stainless steel or other metal, one end of which typically measures 1½ fluid ounces (approx. 44ml), the other typically 1 fluid ounce (approx. 30ml).

From the very beginning, we discussed the design of the coat as one which could be reversed later on.

Coat

The degree of space in between the collars points at their longest point. Can range from narrow to cutaway. In most people’s memories, this is also what the key reference piece is like: the wrap oat made by Giorgio Armani for Richard Gere in American Gigolo. In this series, which started a few years ago on Permanent Style, we explain why a rule or convention exists in menswear, and then how to break it. The image above from the Dior Homme Autumn-Winter 2011 collection shows the position on mens trousers where this closure is most commonly used, as a sturdy way of fastening the waistband of mens or womens tailored trousers. It could also be used in a similar way on skirt waistbands.

The belt itself also gives you a few different ways to wear the coat - varying by how open you leave the coat before tying it. And a cloth that was soft enough to be happily cinched, but also heavy enough to have drape and flow when untied. This wasn’t discussed when the coat was being made. I didn’t ask either, but the onus is more on the tailor to ask the customer’s opinion – as they should be aware how much difference it will make to the overall look. Men tend to struggle with it though. We generally tend to prefer everything tied down and buttoned up. It also shows how nice a variegated horn button is on this cloth – and perhaps how it would look with a normal 6x2 button configuration on the front.

Sleeve Pitch

So I’m unsure on this point. Which of course, is one of the great reasons why the experiment is reversible. The angle of the shoulder line. May be regular, sloped (shoulders angle downward) or square (shoulders form a 180-degree line). Shoulders are often not of the same slope on a customer. Fit/Style: As you can see from our selections, there's various different types of baggy jeans and cuts/styles you can choose from. Some baggy jeans are tapered below the knee to create a more narrow look, while others flare out to really emphasize that oversized look. To that point, some baggy jeans are really big/bulky to add to the overall baggy look of the jeans (which is what you saw a lot of in the 1990s and 2000s). Really baggy jeans can mean be multiple things in one, and can blend together multiple elements, it just depends on how baggy you specifically want your jeans to be. The images below show the other type of hook and bar that can be sewn on with small, neat buttonhole stitches around the loops at either end. It is best to test different types on small scraps of your fabric to determine if it will suit the needs of your garment. Bear in mind that you will also have a more secure fastening if the hooks and bars are secured to a strong internal layer, rather than just only being attached to a layer of fabric. So this could mean using strong fusing or a layer of interfacing or canvas as an under layer and attaching your hooks and bars through the fabric to the structure underneath. Why is this? Well, primarily because a DB has cloth that overlaps at the front, and therefore when it is not done up, there is an excess of material at the front that can flap around.