HGX-LITE-extruder All Metal Extruder Hardened Steel Reduction Gear Extruder Compatible with Ender3/Ender5/CR10 3D Printer (Color : Extruder gear set)

Product Information

Before starting any actual printing I did the standard Set Z-Min procedure since I had messed around with the entire hotend physical configuration. (I’ve crashed the hotend into the print bed enough times to be wary of that happening again.) Heated bed: Heated beds are heated platforms that, when printed or placed on top of, create the material. A heated bed is important for printing objects that require a heated surface, such as ABS. Friction, given that we normally have an extra distance between the extruder and the hotend, this has to travel through a PTFE tube that can offer some friction, in flexible filaments such as TPU printing becomes more complicated. The little piece of PTFE is not useless! It is supposed to be poked into the opening at the top of the extruder to help guide the filament into the gear drive. I thought it was supposed to connect the extruder to the hotend, but this was incorrect. Such is life with no directions! Reduced distance to the hotend, allows greater control in the flow of the filament in addition to being able to use motors that are more contained in size and weight.

The answer is that particular piece of tubing is useless, but it’s function is critical. So you’ll have to make your own piece of tubing. What that tube does is provide a connecting path for the filament as it moves out of the bottom of the extruder and down to the top of the hotend’s heatbreak. It is important that there be no gaps in this connection because gaps can cause all sorts of obscure problems (like leaking filament or jammed nozzles). Because of the geometry of the SR’s hotend parts you’ll need a piece of tubing that is 52 mm long. I recommend using Capricorn tubing, but PTFE should also work OK.the aux pin can also be used as a header for a plugged in chamber thermistor , to do this you need to wire the thermistor up as shown here

Orbiter, for us one of the most versatile due to its power, reliability, low weight and compatibility with machines given the amount of mods that we can find. By being able to use practically any hotend it gives us more versatility to the set. Oozing or Stringing in our pieces (threads), in this system it is more complicated to control the flow of the filament in an agile way, creating complications to control this type of artifacts.

The A1 and A2 inputs are optional because they refer to FS and AUX which can be connected directly into the main PCB but if you prefer you can connect them to this second piece PCB.