The Raynox DCR-250 Macro Lens for Sony DSC-RX10 is a macro lens which screws onto the front of the lens and performs as a magnifier of the subject you intend to photograph. The lens is built out of high indexoptical glass and creates a really sharp image. The lens provides a magnification power of 2.5x and includes a front filter thread which measures in at 49mm, enabling you to attach innovative filters for intriguing effects. Raynox lenses come sold in a box with an adapter, and the Raynox adapter clips onto the front of your main lens. Just screw the Raynox into the adapter and clip the squeezy bits to the very front of the lens: it grips onto the thread that will usually hold a filter. It all looks a little odd but the adapter is the way it is so it will fit onto many lens diameters. Macro photography is generally associated with photography of flowers and insects, even so this type of photography is not limited to only these types of photographs. This type of macro lens is used for taking close-up photography of jewelry, diamonds, very well used in the field of numismatics as well as to photograph food products and is even used in science. The great advantage for starting out with a Raynox is that you can use all the in-camera aperture controls like you would normally, but most importantly you won't have to fret looking through a very dark viewfinder as you do with reversed manual lenses. Learning how to keep still and stalk is hard enough and the added complication of a dark viewfinder really isn't especially helpful. The Raynox 250 consists of two main parts: a clip-on mount that will fit any thread size between 52mm and 67mm, and a lens made of 3 high index optical glass elements in 2 groups. The lens comes with a plastic lens cap and rear cap for protection. In practice, it can be used with any focal length but vignetting becomes an issue below 75mm (35mm equivalent). The Raynox DCR-250 macro converter lens

Vignetting. I'm not that worried about the vignetting - the whole point for this conversion lens for me is magnification and focal distance. On smaller kit lens, you will notice slight vignetting in the corners - even less noticeable on a DX body, understandably. On the larger Nikkor 80-200mm the vignetting can be quite extreme, especially at the shorter zoom distances (caused by the step-down ring or Snap-On Universal Adapter needed for mounting.) There is one situation where I use a tripod where the subject/scene always moves faster than I can respond to. This is where light is falling on to a subject (typically a flower), with sunlight coming through gaps in tree foliage up above which is moving in a slight breeze. This can give continually changing illumination on the subject and from time to time can produce really nice effects. But it changes far too fast for me to spot a nice effect and decide to photograph it, even if I have everything lined up and waiting for the right moment. So I take bursts of shots and sort through them later on the PC to see if I captured anything nice. Sometimes it works a treat. Though I tested the Raynox 250 for this review, there is also a second conversion lens available from Raynox called the Raynox 150. It has been rated more beginner-friendly due to its more forgiving depth of field. With the lens attached to a zoom lens like the 55-250, you change the magnification by altering the amount of zoom. You may find it easier to start with a small magnification, which you will get at 55mm.Extension tubes are also an affordable way to increase magnification. Unfortunately many extension tubes are not fully compatible with the electronics in modern lens and camera bodies. The Raynox DCR-250 plays very nicely with your camera,has limited impact on the EXIF data of your photos,with no impact to f/stop reading, or shutter speed;and depending on the camera or lens, you can also maintain auto-focus (which honestly isn't very useful in macro-photography.) Most extension tubes (and the Laowa lens) also require stepped-down focus (focusing in the dark) which can prove very difficult without a modeling light. That brings us to conversion lens. Yes, usually just mentioning the words in front of any serious photographer result in a uncontrollable, painful contortion of their facial muscles. Raynox proves this doesn't have to be the case. Mounting the Raynox DCR-250 on a telephoto lens the Nikkor 80-200mm, I also preserve the advantage of utilizing the zoom. With a fixed-focus reversed lens, you have to swap extension tubes to change your magnification factor. Watch Outs This significantly enlarges the subject within your frame which in turn makes it possible for outstanding macro shots to be taken incredibly easily. The Raynox Lens is not a dedicated lens, which means it is unable to be connected directly to the camera, it needs to be attached to a lens with a filter size between 52mm to 67mm. The clips connect on to the interior ring on to the front lens element, the lens provides a magnification power of 2.5x. Alternatively, has anyone any comments on the Raynox DCR-5320Pro? This is a native 72mm set of converters, with a 2 and a 3 dioptre pair that can be combined. There doesn't seem to be much mention of them here, though, particularly compared with the DCR-250. When I first started taking macro photos, I bought the M.Zuiko 60mm f/2.8, thinking that anything less wasn’t worth the investment. However, having used the Raynox 250 out in the field for two weeks, I’ve come to the realisation that dedicated macro lenses aren’t the be-all and end-all of macro photography. Yes, they are more flexible in that there is no real limit on your working distance and can be used for applications beyond just macro, but they are also much more expensive. Not only is the Raynox far more affordable, but it also allows you to test the extent of your interest in the macro genre. Plus, being so compact, you can carry it with you at all times and snap it onto your lens whenever the appropriate occasion arises. In short, with the Raynox, there isn’t any excuse to miss out on a macro opportunity ever again!

Anytime taking close-up photographs and you’re hoping to get close up to a flower the minimum focusing distance is the nearest you will get to the subject and continue to obtain suitable focus. Most probably you are going to experience focus problems because of the minimum focusing distance for that particular lens. The Raynox Macro Lens enables you to focus closer and get inside of a few centemetres of the subject. Since August I have been using a Panasonic G3 (interchangeable lens, mirrorless, micro four thirds camera), with the 150, 250 and Canon 500D used on a 45-200mm lens.Using the 150 on my 45-200mm lens at full zoom of 200mm, I capture a scene about 18mm across, with a working distance of between about 164 to 210mm.