Although it was rolled, it was slightly squished so now there are parallel fold-lines along the entire mat. Then you can clean it afterwards using acetone, which will break the pigment apart and allow you to clean it off with the alcohol. Tape them together in a way that you can fold the two boards in on each other, with the grid-ed face inside to keep the grid clean while storing.

I am joking, but I can assure you that even permanent markers can easily be cleaned off Chessex maps after months if you use isopropyl alcohol to clean it off. I personally haven't used mine in ages due to a lack of interest from IRL players to run games using a battlemat, but I have it stowed under a mattress in case I do need it. If Con-Tac isn't available, something comparable will be, and having the Kittrich part numbers allows saying to the clerk, "I want something like this!I also wonder if it would help to unroll it for a couple hours before you game and then roll it up to travel and then unroll it again as soon as you get to your destination. That's why almost everything I use is on GW 25mm round bases, upside down, with the mini's original base cut to let it sit inside of it. Bonus: this can double as a hard material in which you can wedge your extra character sheets in to keep them from crumpling down the edges.

I can always be certain that the older one-sided Chessex hex mats I have will always lay flat when unrolled. I've found the most important thing is to clean the map after use - leaving it a week or two for the next game session is sure to leave marks. In my experience, they'll accumulate some marker residue no matter what, but dry erase + damp wipe is your best path to a long life. Best thing about them is that you lay out the tiles as you need them, rather than laying out the whole mat at once. Decided this time I will streamline the game, put more emphasis in story telling and less focus (and money) in materials.Simply lay this large map on a table or other flat playing surface ahead of time and you are ready to play. Sometimes during a campaign, if i'm using a laminated map, i'll lay it on the chessex map before rolling.

I generally don't draw anything until right before a fight, then erase it immediately after with a spray bottle and paper towels. The books are more constrained but varied enough (and there a packs of static-cling stickers which give even more customisation) and this means you can quickly get them to the table during a session. durable and persistent: paper sheets work fine, yes, but they're one-use only, and I have to redraw the grid for each new sheet. I figured I can start with the 26 * 23 1/2 inches of the standard Chessex battlemat, but advice is welcomed.Take your sword, man, and cut out my heart; then squeeze it so that the blood will flow over the red stone. Because these gaming mats are made of vinyl, you can’t use dry-erase markers or grease pencils for fear of staining or ruining the material. It has the advantage of being able to tear away the top layer, and is good for locations you visit a lot.

MADE FROM EXPANDED VINYL - This Mat is reversible and has 1 inch squares on one side and 1 inch hexes on the other side. I've recently switched over to a vinyl Chessex battlemat (from a dry erase board with one-inch squares cut into it) because I needed more room.Heavy books might cause the cover to crack or tear and laptops put out enough heat in most cases that it can seriously weaken the stability of the cover. Instead you need to use water-based -overhead-projection pens to draw layouts on the surface of the Battlemat. The black is not bad, but blue and red are extremely difficult to clean off and leave possibly permanent marks or at least multiple cleaning is required. Featuring a soft vinyl surface, these mats allowed gamers to create their own game using the blocks or hexes throughout the map. Move the board but position it so you can se one row of triangles through the holes and repeat until done.