I think one issue with "enamels" is that (like "primer") it doesn't have a clear and consistent definition. "Acrylic" implies a specific thing; acrylate, but "enamel" can just mean a hard wearing paint (which itself can mean different things) that can be made from different bases.

I hate greys but I love greys... I own far too many greys because it's so hard to guess what a grey will look like until you've painted it on a model (in terms of is it slightly warmish, slightly coolish, slightly purplish, slightly greenish, etc). I usually buy a grey, paint it, decide it's not what I wanted and it gets thrown in my pile-of-paints-I-barely-use, lol. These are some of the boldest and brightest colours in the Contrast range. They’re perfect for creating vivid finishes and striking effects. Who knows what arcane elements our paint technicians mixed up to get such vibrancy? As a professional painter and color theory enthusiast, I can suggest several Citadel Colour paints that pair well with Grey Seer – Spray, providing a harmonious and visually appealing color scheme for miniatures. Nobody is calling GW paint primer, nobody is falsely labeling DYI primers as primers if they don't say primers on the cans. But to claim somebody is assigning a meaning to a product that doesn't exist when said product clearly is labeled as such is arguing for arguments sake. Enamel based spray primers offer all of that and more, and are under half the price if you buy off brand like the one I mentioned.

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Together with the new Contrast paints and reformulated shades, you’ll find it easier than ever to achieve the results you want and make your miniatures pop on the battlefield.

Personally, if I'm just doing a bit of something and don't want to buy a whole pot (like, one off model vs a whole army that needs to be that colour), then I'll mix up what I need and save a swatch of it with a note of which paints were used so if I ever need to reproduce it I can. Pylar Glacier creates the illusion of an icy surface with no hassle. Briar Queen Chill and Dreadful Visage live up to their names, making them ideal for spectral phantasms or smoky apparitions, and Mantis Warriors Green offers a luminous green-yellow that’s perfect for bolts of wyrd energy. Apply another layer of Ultra Matte Varnish to bind the pigment and give the whole model a consistent finish.Need to paint some solid Space Marine armour? Hues like Baal Red and Bad Moon Yellow will make short work of saturated ceramite for any Chapter. Or, if you’ve got your eyes on a Hedonites of Slaanesh war host, Doomfire Magenta will give you the luxurious robes you need to satiate the Lord of Pleasure himself. Contrast Wyldwood for the pouches, a dab of Contrast Iyanden Yellow on the Purity Seal, Skulls and weapon housing for a spot of colour. The only "hobby" spray I use is Testors Dullcote. I haven't experienced a flatter matte color than that. The difference in formulation is starkly apparent when stripping the paint. GW's spray slips right off along with the layers of paint on top of it, whereas 'true' primers are usually left behind in the crevices.

Do two steps of edge highlighting – first with Vallejo Model Color Dark Grey, then with Dark Blue Grey. With some kitchen towel laid out, give your brush some test blasts with your airbrush. Vary the distance between the brush and the towel and your airbrush and the brush until you find a level of spatter that works for you. You don’t want to head straight into doing this on your model or you risk wiping out a lot of your work. I wouldn't go as far as to say it's worth the money, but it's actually a really good product when used properly. Mortarion Grime is a lovely shade of yellowy filth that’s perfect for weathering war machines and dirtying grizzled behemoths. Tyran Blue and Berserker Bloodshade offer new ways to shade reds and blues that are more vivid than our existing hues, while Soulblight Grey is great for shading pale paint schemes.GW's current line of spray paints use a very strong solvent, they stink to high heaven way worse than the GW sprays I used a decade or so ago. I haven't tried to strip any of my models sprayed with the current line of GW sprays with alcohol, but they won't scratch off the surface of the plastic easily using a finger nail (though you can mar the surface texture of them). Paint makes Warhammer, and gorgeous miniatures are a key part of the Warhammer hobby. There’s nothing better than two epic-looking armies facing off on the battlefield, and we all take great enjoyment in sharing our proudest paint jobs on the internet. To help you keep creating incredible armies and jaw-dropping models, Citadel Colour are massively expanding the Contrast range, improving the range of amazing Shade paints, and creating the smoothest and brightest ever white spray – the best just got better. I’m not going to write how I do my lenses as I’m using a method from Mighty Brush’s how to paint Blood Angels guide. These are wonderfully laid out tomes that go into detail on many of the techniques I’ve used here and I can’t recommend them strongly enough. You can also use Goonhammer’s tutorials from How to Paint Space Marines, or How to Paint Lenses, gemstones, and vials. Blood spatter Now for the finishing touches. A Flesh Tearer should be blood-stained so I drop some Blood for the Blood God on his chainsword and some drops on the base to make him suitably stained. The base is Astrogranite drybrushed with Celestra Grey and then some Valhallan Blizzard and tufts of Army Painter static grass on top of that. I’m very happy with how this guy turned out and may paint more of these in the future if I can settle on a faster way to do the shoulder pad icons. Credit: Robert “TheChirurgeon” Jones Credit: Robert “TheChirurgeon” Jones