The pedal design, construction and positioning are identical to the old kit. This is good news for those racers who have nailed their heel and toe technique. As you won’t need to adjust to new pedal positions. The G923 will also work with the new generation of Xbox, the Xbox Series X. We haven’t had confirmation that the PS5 will support this racing wheel yet, but we would be amazed if it doesn’t. Disconnect the white cable from the circuit board and then remove the circuit board from the steering wheel tray by unscrewing the small silver screws, as in the video above. Fanatec’s pedals are excellent, with seriously tough metal frames and proper progressive brakes, and you can even choose how stiff the brake is. It goes so stiff, in fact, that to really get the most out of the CSL Elite you want a frame into which you screw the pedals. But the price alone tells you this is an enthusiast wheel. This is noticeable when you compare the two-pedal kits side by side, with the new brake feeling ever so slightly softer and smoother across its movement range.

This may add a little confusion for those who are buying the new G923. Meaning you have to be extra careful you are purchasing the right console version. It is a racing wheel that is completely aimed at the entry-level racing wheel market. Those who don’t currently own any form of racing wheel, but really want to get into sim racing. Important: logitech steering wheels, compared to others, are more complex to disassemble. Modify your steering wheel if you're sure of where to put your hands. Just like the previous generation of Logitech racing wheels, the G923 comes in two forms. An Xbox compatible wheel, and a PS4 and PC compatible wheel. Unlike the previous generation, both of these variants look identical and use the same naming convention.So, almost out of nowhere Logitech revealed their “brand new” racing wheel. This got many sim racers excited until… We all saw how the G923 looked. It looks identical to the G29! If you're on a budget, then, we'd recommend either the Thrustmaster T150 or the Hori Overdrive wheel for Formula 1 and other racing sims. They're fantastic entry-level wheels that, unlike the Thrustmaster T300 RS, won't cost the earth.

The two shorter buttons, on the other hand, have a "left and right", so take one of them, insert it into one of the two remaining holes (the ones furthest from the centre of the steering wheel) and turn them until they match the mechanism. If it doesn't fit, you need to put it in the other hole. Put the spacer in the centre of the hub, fixing it so that it fits tightly and with the ACELITH lettering straight and facing you.In the tutorial video the spacer is different: the one you received is better, don't worry :) Enabling Trueforce definitely adds another layer to the sensations felt through the wheel, though it does come at the cost of making the wheel even noisier than usual. Trueforce, for instance, enables the G923 to hook itself into the in-game audio and deliver a constant vibration to the wheel rim to simulate the throbbing engine reverberating into the cabin and through the controls. The higher the revs, the stronger the vibration. If you mute the game volume on your gaming TV or soundbar and speaker system you can still hear the G923 itself sound like it’s going through its own rev range – it’s kind of like that slightly distant, tinny sound you get when you go to play a game and you think your speakers are broken until you realise you’ve just forgotten to unplug your gaming headset. First you need to remove the original rim, and to do so I recommend following the step-by-step video tutorial above, but here are the main steps:The goal is to add extra immersion to your sim racing experience and allow you to feel a stronger connection to the car you are driving. Does it work? Well, yes and no. Replace the front part of the hub and screw it in with the rear screws you unscrewed at the beginning.