Whether you’re repairing some worn plaster or working from scratch, we have an excellent range of plaster to create a protective and decorative finish to interior walls and ceilings. What types of plaster do we have available at Selco? Multi Finish Plaster This is why practicing is a great idea. First, we suggest you mix up an eggcup full of skim. Place this on a plasterboard off cut of some kind that you have prepared with some PVA. Spread it out and mark the time it takes to go firm but not hard. This is the point at which skim can be made smooth and the trowel marks will disappear.

Q4 finishing meets the highest visual surface requirements. It allows decoration with glossy wallpapers, paints, or varnish coats, as well as stucco marble and similar finishes. If you or your customer has an ugly or outdated wall/ ceiling texture that is dated or was poorly done, skim coating will give you a new canvas without having to tear out all of your existing walls to get rid of your unsightly texture! New Installs By the time you've read all this post, you should have a clear idea which option to go with, I'm not expecting you to decide right away so don't worry, just read on for now.If you get it right, doing your own skim plastering can save you a lot of money. If you get it wrong it can cost you a fortune putting it right, so if you’ve never done any skim plastering, before doing it for real on a given wall in your home, practice first to perfect your skills. This is essentially how long you’ve got to work with it and get it on the wall before it’s gone too hard and it’s too late. Once skim is hard the only way of smoothing it is by sanding. This can only really be done as the plaster is getting hard, as if you try and do it when it’s still soft, you’ll just end up moving it around the wall as opposed to actually smoothing it. Get the second coat on in the same way as the first, by scooping from your hawk and then trowelling over the surface, holding your trowel at roughly 20° or so. When mixing, the dry plaster powder must be added to water and mixed, the water should never be added to the powder.

In short, no you do not need to apply PVA to a bare plasterboard surface before it is plastered, you can simply plaster straight onto it as long as it’s flat and smooth with no imperfections. Very briefly, whilst I'm on the subject, there is one thing I really want to point out - as per the instructions of the Plasterboard adhesive, there is no need to PVA the masonry before you attach plasterboard, just clean down the masonry. You really do need to make sure it's cleaned down well, otherwise the adhesive will be attaching itself to dust and may separate from the wall in time. The results were better than I could have possibly imagined. Application takes time and is messy, so be prepared for that and lay sheets! Follow the instructions and work in small areas, use tool kit you buy separately.With mine, I troweled off my bonding coat so that it was flush with the surrounding (good) plaster. This was because I was completely skimming over that wall, so the finished level will be a couple of millimeters above the existing good plaster. Why is it that the plaster in the corners of windows always fails? Well, I'll tell you about that in a jiffy. For now, let's get it sorted. Don’t be tempted to use corner trowels for this, they’re not that easy to use and can do more harm than good sometimes. Repeat the above process of scooping and apply plaster until the wall or area you’re working on has a full coating of around 1.5 – 2mm. If there are only a few bits of detached plaster, great, this means you're in the right place, read on. If there are lots of loose bits of plaster and you're unsure whether it's worth patching it up, I would opt for removing the lot from that wall and re-plastering it all, better safe than sorry. To learn how to completely re-plaster a wall, start here.