While the internal bar-end junction is the cleanest option, not every frame supports having the junction box there. Some handlebars don’t allow you to run electric wires from one handlebar drop to the other. In cases like these you’d use the traditional below-the-stem Junction A SM-EW90. This means that you’ll have to use the Ultegra or Dura-Ace shift levers. There are no 105 Di2 rim brake shifters. Yep, it is possible to set up a Di2 system with just a junction A. This means running cables from your Junction A to every component you want to connect. I won’t go into the details as much as I did above, but one way to do this is: Borrowing design features from its more expensive EC90 sibling, Easton's EC70 SL Di2 is your carbon handlebar upgrade with a decent price tag but not a crazy one.

Run a long wire to a 5-port junction A. You’d probably attach this junction box to your saddle or somewhere easily accessible (for charging and configuration) When the charge does get very low, your front mech will stop shifting first, leaving you with the rear derailleur only to get you home. It means that you won’t be left totally in the lurch by a low battery. Length is critical if you don't want it to spin, so measure the width of the BB and subtract the depth of both bearing threaded bits. mine was 68.5mm -15.5mm -15.5mm = 37.5mm Like the sibling groupsets, the brains of the system live in the rear derailleur, so there’s no junction box in the mix either.While support for optional satellite shifters has been dropped, along with the physical hood-top buttons, the functionality of the electronic system and E-Tube Project app is identical. Generally speaking, a Di2 bike is always switched on. When you press any shifting switch or button, your bike will immediately shift the corresponding derailleur or hub. You do not have to " wake up" the bike before it'll work. (if you do, something is wrong)

Dropping down to the small ring suddenly is practically identical in experience, just with the slight hesitancy that’s seen across all Shimano Di2 groupsets. These shifters are essentially the 11-speed models, with SD300 ports and updated firmware. Shimano has updated the calipers ( Ultegra / Dura-Ace) too, but again, they’re just the older calipers with a new paint job. Wiring up a 12-speed Di2 rim brake bike Would jamming everything in (even if it's possible) just cause friction and wear on the sleeve/spindle? I expect so! There are three wires that connect Junction B and the other components. Wire F runs to the battery, H to the rear derailleur and the last wire( G) connects the front derailleur.Other options at more cost are, a bar end Di2 junction, or a stem that takes the Di2 junction internally like a Pro Vibe stem. or a one piece carbon bar stem, there are few out there that integrate Di2 junctions into the stem, and many have cheaper copies similar to the Canyon H11 so you might be putting d) ahead of a) if you start cutting the frame about. Its bad enough that mere fashion has probably caused you to have holes in highly stressed parts of the frame anyway...? Whether a 234g difference matters or not will be up to you. If weight is your primary concern above all else, of course, this isn’t where you should be shopping.

You can then use the up and down rear mech shift levers to micro-adjust the position of your derailleur as you spin the cranks. Once you’ve got your rear mech running sweetly, press the junction box/controller button again to exit adjustment mode. That the design is the same as the more expensive groupsets means that I need to look out for the 105 branding before being able to confidently tell them apart.If your bike is an 11-speed or 10-speed road bike, and you have the EW-WU111/101 Wireless Unit wireless module - just hook your bike up to your bike computer and look up the battery charge level on your Wahoo/Garmin/other bike computer. Type 3 Port Di2 has a 7x8mm hole to allow a Di2 cable to pass through. It will require a 7x8mm Di2 bung Use the remaining ports on Junction A to run electric wires to the battery, front derailleur and rear derailleur This means that the 12-speed front derailleur is optimised for chainrings that are 1mm further outboard than the ones on the 11-speed cranksets. Finally, 11-speed Shimano cranksets do not work with 12-speed Shimano (outer) chainrings, even though the BCD is 110 in both cases. This is due to the design of the crankset - you physically cannot put a 12-speed Shimano outer ring on an 11-speed Shimano crankset. Hydraulic Disc Brake specifics