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In conclusion, I don't think one has to feel ashamed of their late model Made in England Stanley. This plane can definitely hang with the big boys. I used this plane exclusively on a recent project with great results. I think the number one thing in getting a plane to work is making sure it is sharp. As you examine the plane, look for a raised ring that works as a receiver of the knob cast into the bed. In some cases, there is one patent date, and no raised ring, meaning your plane is Type 13, and the dates range from 1925 to 1928. If there is one patent date and a raised ring, the plane type is Type 14, which dates between 1929 and 1930. If there are no patent dates and raised rings, you also have a plane Type 1 to 8. As you measure the depth-adjustment nut, note if it is 1-1/4inch in diameter. That means it has three dates cast into the bed, and the plane is Type 12, dating between 1919 and 1924. If not, that means it is a Type 11 and dates 1910 and 1918.
Identify Stanley Hand Plane Age And Type (Type Study How To Identify Stanley Hand Plane Age And Type (Type Study
The lateral adjustment lever is now two-piece construction. It has a circular disk replacing the straight portion where it engages the slot in the iron. The brass adjusting nut has a left-hand thread. “7-24-88” is also stamped into the lever. Stanley Type 8 Handplanes date from 1899-1902. The “7-24-88” is the only patent date found on the lateral adjustment lever, and “STANLEY” is still there. The “S” casting marks are eliminated and replaced with “B.” SUITABLE FOR: Removing very fine shavings from a variety of wood types to leave a smooth finish. When used effectively, the “No. 4” Sweetheart™ Smoothing Bench Plane from STANLEY® can produce a finish that equals or surpasses that made by conventional sandpaper.For this, you may need a Stanley wood plane parts diagram and a tape measure. As for the records, Stanley made tools starting in 1843, including a bench plane. For more information on advanced sharpening we recommend David Charlesworth’s video Plane Sharpening, available in both DVD In the end, what really matters is the surface of the wood. I find knots in pine can be difficult to get a nice, smooth surface on, but this plane did a superb job.
No. 4 – what am I doing wrong? - Woodworking Topic: Stanley No. 4 – what am I doing wrong? - Woodworking
Stanley Type 14 Handplanes date 1929-1930. It is from the USA and is now cast into the bed at the toe. A raised ring is cast into the bed to act as a receiver for the knob, and it prevents the splitting of the knob. The chances of splitting are high due to the raised ring and greater leverage capable of being placed on them than on the low knobs. Also, the mouth on the type 11 is finer. This doesn't really make a difference to me, though. Since I've learned to set the chipbreaker farther forward on the blade for fine shavings, I've not noticed a need for a fine mouth. A lot is said about the ribbed face vs. the flat face on the frogs and I see no benefit to the flat face. The lever cap only presses on the blade at the lever and the bottom of the cap iron. The middle has no pressure on it at all. My time in the Army taught me that raw brass needs to be polished every day or it will start to tarnish and look muddy in a very short time. I thought I'd try an experiment and dip the newly polished brass in shellac to see if it would prevent the brass from oxidizing. I'll report later if it works or not. I only did this to the knob and tote nuts, not the blade adjustment wheel. I figured it was more important for me that the wheel felt right. English made Stanley planes seem to be less desirable then the US made ones. Why is that? Are they inferior?Stanley Type 15 Handplanes date 1931-1932. They remove all patent info on the bottom casting. “BAILEY” is now cast behind the knob toward the rib, and the number is directly in front of the knob. I’ll take some photos later of the blade etc. Howard, I’m using 240, 600 and 1200 grit sandpaper taped to a flat tile and trying to follow the technique on Paul’s sharpening video. I’m sorry but I’m not sure what is meant by the chip-breaker being honed – again I’ll take some more photos and hopefully you can enlighten me on this!
Plane | An Easy To Follow Guide How to Date a Stanley Plane | An Easy To Follow Guide
Stanley Type 7 (Stanley no 7 plane identification) Handplanes date from 893-1899. The number designation is spaced farther apart. Bailey’s name and patent dates are no longer on the brass adjustment nut and cap iron. I am so frustrated and haven’t a clue what I’m doing wrong! Bought an old Stanley No. 4 plane from Tooltique and it has been working great on my workbench build (first ever woodworking project). I sharpened the blade a couple of times and it has started skipping/jumping across the wood leaving horizontal lines. It happens both with and against the grain, and doesn’t matter how shallow I set the blade. So I’m thinking it’s either something wrong with my sharpening, or with the way I’m putting it together. I don’t have a honing guide so am sharpening freehand on 240, 600 and 1200 grit sandpaper taped to a flat bathroom tile. I wondered if the angle was too steep so tried to sharpen again really trying for 25 – 30 degrees but it hasn’t made any difference. Should I buy a honing guide and try again?
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When using this plane, I would have to say that it works just as well as my type 11. The original blade and chipbreaker were in nearly new condition, so they weren't messed up and I didn't need to replace them. The original blade, however, does tend to need sharpening more frequently than my Ray Iles aftermarket blade. I’m fairly sure the lever cap and screw is set correctly – it’s definitely not too loose, if anything I set it too tight and had to loosen it to allow me to adjust the depth.
No. 4 Bronze Smooth Plane Lie-Nielsen Toolworks No. 4 Bronze Smooth Plane Lie-Nielsen Toolworks
This plane comes with a new and improved Stainless Steel yoke installed in the Frog. The Steel is stronger than Bronze and will be more resistant to wear over time. Pay attention to the color of the plane. When the Stanley plane is painted blue, it is Type 15 to 20, and the plane is Type 20 and it dates from 1962 to 1967.The rear totes are different, too. The type 11, however, has a user made tote that may or may not be the same shape as the original. I've been meaning to make my own tote for it, but haven't gotten around to it yet. The English No. 4's tote is comfortable in my hand, so perhaps I'll make a new one similar to this one. Iron tools are cast from Ductile Iron, a very strong alloy that will take a lot of abuse. We use Manganese Bronze for the bodies of Bronze tools. These castings are fully stress relieved, a process that removes inherent stresses and ensures that the tool will remain flat and true.
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