We will not sell, distribute or lease your personal information to third parties unless we have your permission or are required by law to do so. We may use your personal information to send you promotional information about third parties which we think you may find interesting if you tell us that you wish this to happen. Now that the initial corner has been done our centre board is having spaceboard cut to fit around the canal bridge for what will form a removable section at the moment. It will make the front of the layout much more presentable though by hiding all of the wiring from viewers at least. A signal box will sit on the embankment to the left of the bridge controlling the junction.

This week we are looking at how to start your diorama using blue craft foam and sculptamold as a base. We use hot wire tools to carve out the foam and then apply a layer of sculptamold to smooth out the appearance. Try experimenting with more water. Not much more, but a little. It sounds like you're using it at the dry end of the mix. Can clog drains if washed off in the sink so be very, very careful about washing this stuff off! It remains chunky from the paper pulp and it does not agree with drains. I clogged my bathroom sink twice and my kitchen sink once trying to deal with it. I suggest gettin a mesh guard to cover the drain so all the hunks of paper pulp get caught and can be thrown in the trash.

Building your diorama base – good foundations

Then there's everything in between. Go ahead, try different things, it's a very forgiving material to work with, unlike hydrocal and other plasters, etc, which require a pretty strict mixing ration with water. White glue – I’ve used various brands and now just fill up my bottles with cheap PVA from the DIY shop. This dry, white, non-toxic modeling material produces objects that are very lightweight, strong and durable. This dry, white, non-toxic modelling material produces objects that are very lightweight, strong and durable. Overall, I would say that this does very well for a product if you're just slathering it over something, but trying to use this as a clay in the same way you'd use polymer/baking clay or pottery clay is a bad idea and will not easily yield the kind of results you get from mediums like that. I do prefer this over CelluClay for the task of "applying a lightweight layer that'll dry hard onto an existing thing" and think for that this works very well. But if you thought this would be akin to mixing up a batch of Crayola modeling magic, then you sorely mistaken.

You may choose to restrict the collection or use of your personal information in the following ways: When it’s fully dry, it’s very hard and durable. In fact, when I had to get it off of an armature I wanted to reuse, I had to smash it against the edge of my stone steps several times to break it apart. As long as a piece isn't too small/thin, it could probably handle being dropped and bunch--at least more so than a clay you have to fire. Probably needs to be sealed to remain moisture proof; whether with paint or an acrylic sealer or something. It smears onto armatures pretty well and can be smoothed with water (which I'll discuss a bit more later).My layout is in a basement which can get damp, and Sculptamold does take a couple of days to dry completely. However, I've never had a mold problem. Sculptamold® is a dry, white, non-toxic compound that combines the best features of clay, plaster, and papiermache, does not shrink, and is durable for dioramas, 3-D sculptures, model railroad scenery and stage scenery. It holds paint very nicely (Also, I did not attempt to color this stuff with paint beforehand; I painted on top of it when totally dry, so I can't say if it the white modeling compound can be colored beforehand or if this will do something bad to it, like stop the chemical reaction that makes it dry so fast).

This change of mind return policy is in addition to, and does not affect your rights under the Australian Consumer Law including any rights you may have in respect of faulty items. Bases are vital to any diorama and need to be sturdy and easy to make. This is my favourite method but there are many different methods so do tell us yours in the comments below. Tools and Materials This change of mind return policy is in addition to, and does not affect your rights under the Australian Consumer Law including any rights you may have in respect of faulty items. To return faulty items see our Returning Faulty Items policy.

Tools and Materials

Doesn’t hold onto fine detail work well at all; there's a brief period between wet and dry that would allow you to press like a metal tool or stamp into it, but it's hard to find that sweet spot and I didn't test this extensively, so I wouldn't could on it being able to be decorated in this way. Basically, there are a couple of issues you might have. Mold needs an environment where the relative humidity is greater than 60% to grow. Your dehumidifier needs to be big enough to keep the humidity in your studio (or whatever) lower than that. You also need to be very conscientious about emptying it as soon as it is full, or a little sooner, because it doesn't do any good if it's shut off because the float trips the limit switch. Also, mold is carried by airborne spores. Try getting a HEPA air filter, which will remove spores from the air. Sculptamould is basically paper fibres (posh papier mache) and does take awhile to dry out as it sets by drying rather than the chemical reaction you get with plaster based products. Usually dries very rough, even if you mist it and try to smooth it, generally requires sanding unless rough look is desired

After shaking closed bag to thoroughly blend contents, add water to Sculptamold® asdirected on bag and begin modelling. Sculptamold® sets in 30 minutes, so prepare only as much as can be usedin a half hour of modelling time. Since it does tend to dry so fast, it probably is much less likely to grow mold or mildew than lots of other powder modeling compounds like instant paper mache because it doesn't stay moist for very long, though I would still take precautions to keep it in a dry, clean area so as to avoid any spores taking root and generally treat this stuff as something to not get damp later on if possible. Sculptamold has been a revelation once we got some out of the bag to trial on a small offcut of spaceboard as shown below. Sculptamold® is a versatile sculpting compound that can be used alone or over armatures and it accepts all typesof paint finishes.

Earn rewards

It is also possible that your canvas is the source of the mold, especially if it has been stored damp. After you stretch it on your frame, spray it with Concrobium Mold Remover (available at Home Depot and other fine stores) and let it dry completely before applying the Sculptamold. It will kill any spores that are present. You can also spray your shower (or sink, or any other nearby water source) with it, which will kill any mold lurking there.